MY FIRST HIMALAYAN TREK | HAMPTA PASS, MANALI | PART II

It’s amazing how time flies. Six months ago, I decided to take a leap of faith and start my first Himalayan trek, and in no time, I was in the middle of the Himalayas, trekking for the first time in my life (Himalayan trek).

Many of my acquaintances thought that I was crazy to take on the Himalayas living all the comfort and luxuries in Bangalore. When I come to think of it, I was not crazy but I underestimated the difficulty of trekking the Himalayas. The trail was like a roller coaster. You either go up or go down, making my journey descending as equally tired as ascending.

So, today, I will relive that crazy awesome experience again and show you the beauty of the Himalayas and you will see why I did it and why you should go for it. 

Discliamer: Apologies if i leave you drooling over your saliva. **wink wink**

At 12pm on 22^nd May we stood on top of  Mandi, the imposing peak, the highest possible height we could attain! It had provokingly challenged us all through the previous week, giving us brief teasing glimpses of its majestic aura through its veil of clouds. For the brief while on its 3750m tall summit, amidst the black and white combination of colors, we beheld a view reserved for the Gods – the breath-taking panorama of our surroundings.

May 17^th 2015

Prini Base Camp

2050mts

A mixed bunch of 40 odd folks had got together, joined by a shared dream, under the roof, at Prini Base Camp on 17th. The reddish blush on the ripening berries was very similar to the natural rouge on the cheeks of the local kids playing on the street, who welcomed wanderers like us with a boisterous stare. We broke ice over steaming chai and hot Pav Bhaji, and started getting to know each other - slowly letting our cultural guards melt like the sugar-cubes in the chai.

While there was considerable outdoor experience and passion pooled between all 40 of us, we had to overcome the handicap of the city-bound nature of our vocations and the dulling of the edge in endless hours of cubicle-slaving. KMA and their team, & Gangaram and his team from Manali helped us do that. They were the giants on whose shoulders we climbed. They and others who had climbed this and other daunting abodes before us! Their pioneering efforts had brought these awesome peaks within our reach. While the confidence they gave us was immeasurable, the joy of their easy and happy banter, the infectiousness of their smiles, their awesome cooking, and their hardy friendship was what made all our shared moments truly memorable. 

Acclimatization Day.

Our first day, marked for acclimatization, was spent exploring the quaint streets of Prini – this amazing defiantly-green lushed space, surrounded by a barren cold mountainous desert which is almost like moon-scape.

Fortunately or unfortunately it rained at the time we went for walk and all that burden of carrying a poncho in bag paid off when we could use it as a shelter against the merciless rain, although that’s the only day we used a poncho in our entire 7 days trek.

May 18^th 2015

Prini -> Hampta Village

Hampta Village Camp

2600mts

The following day after a 20 min of warm up exercise and tummy full breakfast we started our trek at 8 in the morning towards Hampta Village which is at a height of 2600m. Luckily, nature was pleasant and, we climbed one of the shoulders, urgently breathing in the sparse, but incredibly crisp and clear air – nourishment for our souls! At this camp I realized I was accompanied by 2 of my Wipro colleagues that I was totally unaware off (It’s truly a small world!). 

Most of our days starts at 4 in the morning and ends at 8 in the night. First half of the day is spent in trekking from one camp to another, followed by lunch and then an adventure activity. We kicked started our activities with a session on using mountaineering tools followed by a fun filled net climbing experience. As much as we enjoyed Mamatha screaming, everytime Sudhakar shook the net, it was nothing when compared to the immense pleasure we received swaying the net when Sudhakar was on it. **evil smile**

 Since we were away from civilization, electricity is far from a dream. We eat an early dinner, around 7ish and are back in tent for a good night sleep around 8. Its commendable to mention the luxury we received while on this trek. We were spoilt with an early tea around 6ish, followed by a variety of breakfast (atleast 2-3 variety) at 8, a welcome drink as soon as we reach out next camp followed by a 2 course lunch around 1ish, again followed by an evening tea and snacks at 4, followed by soup at 6, followed by a 3-course dinner at 7, followed by a hot drink at 8 (Usually bournvita aka sugar shots :p ). So if you expect to lose weight while on the trek, it’s a clear myth :D

May 19^th 2015

Hampta Village -> Karimidiyri

Karimidiyri Camp

3100mts

Our approach trek began through the forest the next day. It was humbling to be in the company of the immense trees that gives us shade and pleasant air to breath. We trekked up up up gaining an elevation of 550m. It wasn’t one of the easy days of trek. This day too, needed quite a lot of strength and push to reach up. The day was tiring but still pleasant because of the surrounding. We sometimes passed few patches of snow, and made snow balls and threw at each other. Our main target was Raghavendra who despite all our efforts seemed to be escaping the snow balls. SIGH!

 We reached our Karimidiyri Camp around 12 in the noon. A multitude of camouflaged tents adorned this flat space surrounded by a stream. A mere 10 min walk ahead, there was a huge patch of land filled with snow, and I along with kids and Ammu Chechi (aka Radha) started throwing snow balls at each other. After a while of brutal bombardments we were summoned back to camp for lunch. This was followed by our afternoon activity of rappelling which I royally failed and fell not just once but twice, just to hear your name being incanted. To save my embarrassment there were a lot more of them who followed my footsteps and fell royally. **wide smile**

Enroute the trek we finally saw birds – Russet Sparrow, Drongo, Streaked Laughingthrush, Black Bulbul, Asian paradise flycatcher (male), grey-hooded Warbler, Himalayan Vulture, Large-billed Crow, A pair of Rock Buntings, yellow wagtail, Rusty-tailed flycatcher, white-capped water redstart, Plumbeous water redstart, a pair of brown dippers, Blue Whistlingthrush, Slaty-headed parakeet, Grey bushchat, Blue-capped Rockthrush, Himalayan Bulbul. Standing on a high ledge, we beheld the Himalayan Vulture gliding with its wing-span over eddies below where we stood. 

We even spoted a large herd of sheep’s that was grazing around the valley. Some days we were accompanied by the mules and horses, grazing on the steep slopes; it seemed as if they were pinned onto them – there was no other way to comprehend their sure-footed gravity-defying posture. 

May 20^th 2015

Karimidiyri -> Jobri Behli

Jobri Behli

2700mts

Three days of arduous trekking brought us to the next camp at 2700m. Since this day was a descent, we could relax a bit and walk. We reached our camp site quite soon. Again a multitude of tents adorned this small flat space. 

This time we reached early and the mules were late. The jingle of the neck-bells of the mules was most welcoming. 

We also had a confluence of children’s camping here from some other group probably on an adventure activity trip.

Soon after lunch we were taken for river crossing activity across raging streams, which sound deceptively melodious from a distance, while hiding their wrath that can tear down rocks; The water was freezing cold and to increase the stakes, while in the middle of the river, while traversing from one point to another, the rope is stopped and you are dipped into the freezing water atleast 3 times depending on how wet you get. This ordeal task was executed by Gangaram with immense pleasure.

From this point on all our mobile networks were lost and we just had this one rock which we named as airtel rock; if you had an airtel sim and you happened to be standing on this rock with your hands stretched high up towards the sky, chances are that you might receive a stick or two to make a call home. This task was pretty funny and I could hear a group of laughter while I attempted it. 

Since the weather was clear this day, we ended up having a camp fire. We hustled around to collect firewood for our camp. The night was very chilly and the warmth of the fire was very welcoming. It was magnificent to watch Gangaram convert a petrol can into a dumro to give our besura songs a little rhythm. We even had a jugalbandi between retro and latest musics. 

May 21^st 2015

Jobri Behli -> Chikka 

Chikka Camp

3150mts

The walk to Chikka camp was very pleasant despite the ascend. Most of walk was along the stream of river which was peaceful. Since Hampta Pass was not open we had to cut short 

our trek and camp at Chikka. We hardly trekked for 2 hrs that day. Enroute to Chikka camp we had to cross a high flowing river over a bridge made of wood that wobbled with every foot you keep. This crossing was a boost to my adrenaline rush and one of the best experiences in the trek. 

We had a lazy day loitering around the camp. All I did was sit across the river stream and listen to music, gazing up in the sky. We did have a rock climbing activity which I was forced to attempt; luckily my stars were aligned well and I could climb up (with some push), although I did end up bruising myself here and there - souvenirs of my trek.

After dinner we had a briefing session for the next day. It was THE day we would attempt to reach up, as up as possible and then descend back to our camps.

‘THE‘day

May 22^nd 2015

Hampta High point

3750 mts

All of us were up by 4 in the morning welcoming the sunrise. After an hour of hustling-bustling we were all set to start our 12 hrs trek. Sometime after 6 in the morning we started towards the peak. Our first goal was to reach the Maggie point from where we will start our next ascend. We passed through a stone made bridge which was very thrilling experience; we skied along the snow patches which wasn’t very fun as I expected it to be. With some help and encouraging words we finally did make it to Maggie point around 8ish.

From Maggie point, some of them decided to retire rather than walking further up. The rest of us went in sync with “Kadam Kadam Badaye ja, Khushi ke geet gaye ja”. The walk was treacherous through wet mud that disintegrates from the stones as we walk up, making the way slippery and risky. Most of the walk was along this muddy terrain or long traverse on the glacier making the ascend further difficult. An easy walk from the gradient perspective, but the benign façade hid yawning bottomless crevasses or loose ice layers ready to break, where temp fell below minus 60 degrees. None of us fancied risking a plunge into that apocalyptic void – so we were very slow and cautious. The caution “Don’t be a Gama in the Land of the Lamas” rang clear in our minds.

 Across the glacier a long, steep and exhausting climb began to the top. The scree and the loose rocks added to the risk and the effort. Many a times the step forward would slip back to almost where it began. I lost count on my falls; luckily I had someone to pick me up or give a hand out when necessary. Fighting off the severe wind-chill, gulping in the sparse air, our only focus was the next step. One step at a time – that’s what existence reduces to. It’s like a meditative trance! 

Sometime after 11am, while we were at a height of 3600m, the view was spectacular. It was mesmeric and it breathed fresh life into us. Rejuvenated, we made the final assault to gain as much height as we can till 12pm. One of us breathlessly hummed the Carpenter song “I am on the top of the world….”, aptly capturing the emotion felt. 

It was now when we were so close, that the unpredictability of the mountain started asserting itself. Most of us were exhausted and dint want to climb further up. So it was decided that only few who could climb up for another 45 min should go ahead and the rest of us could wait at this point. Although I was quite reluctant to go up, I am not a quitter, so I decided to go up against all odds. Another 45 min of ascend wouldn’t cost me much, but if I do not attempt it I would regret it for the rest of my life. I pushed myself harder and traced Gangaram’s steps to reach further up. Alas! Climbing boulders seems attemptable but walking on snow seems so hard, that every glaring snow patch land seems unattainable. But giving up was not an option, so I kept going. After wheezing, puffing and panting for short spurts of climbing we took increasingly longer breaks. These pauses enabled us to reflect on our unhealthy living and each one of us made several resolutions, which we knew at a subconscious level we will break soon after resuming our normal lives. Finally we achieved a height of 3750m (20 of us).

There was no time to further climb up! This was it! No more ascend! So we collapsed on our knees and prayed our silent thanks in our own private emotional way! Why were we here? I don’t have an answer. To many, this pursuit may seem irrationally eccentric. It is difficult to comprehend what it means without experiencing it. I believe Walt Whitman caught the emotion right on: “I went to the woods because I wanted to live deep and suck out all the marrow of life! And not, when I came to die, discover that I had not lived.” In a metaphoric sense for these brief intense moments in our lives we were emulating the Lammergeir – its enviable freedom and its grace (not to forget the “sucking of the marrow”).  

The climb down was brutal and far more dangerous. The only way we could go down the snow is sliding. Many screamed on the way down, many were forced to go against their will; some enjoyed the experience some had minor bruises; some skied down some of them toppled. Walking against gravity needs strength but walking along the force of gravity needs more strength. Most of my walk was on 4 legs with my bum acting as breaks as and when needed. This descend cost me a pant, but who cares about a pant when life is at stake. Suffering from bruised blue toes and trembling knees we finally arrived at Maggie Point around 4pm. All of were famished by now. The adrenaline rush kept the hunger at bay but as the stakes reduced and our body relaxed we could feel the hunger growing within. All

of us gorged on the hot Maggie and relaxed for a bit, then started the final descend towards our base camp. This descend was further adventurous when Gangaram decided to help me loose my fear of snow by dragging me into it as if I was some kind of meat. After a lot of struggling I stood on my feet, took a minute, inhaled deeply, told myself it's all okay, that I am fine, that I can do it, and crossed the snow. 

We reached around 5pm in the evening, 12 hours since we had set off. It took us two more days to reach Prini Base Camp.

By now we all assumed the worst is behind us, but fate had its way. This particular night, while we all were trying to get some rest after an ordeal trek, nature embraced us with her cruelty. It started raining heavily and the wind was howling with aggression trying to prove a point i suppose. The wind howling was so high that most of my fellow trekkers tent was blown out. I could hear screams for help from almost all the tents. The locals tried to help few folks, most of them were asked to hold the pole of the tent to avoid it to fly by in the fierce wind. Strangely i slept through the entire night, with faint noises of scream in my ears. The next day morning i was told tales about all the atrocities the nature had to offer. Luckily the nature just managed to scare us and no actual harm was caused.

23rd May 2015

Chikka -> Setan

Setan Camp

2700m

The next day began our descend to our next camp in Setan. It was again a 3-4 hours of trek. The route towards Setan was via forest for a while followed by the walk on road. The walk through the road was pretty boring and most of us were deeply sad to return back. It was like the mountains were calling to us.

The first site that welcomed us was Setan Village and Mobile network. I recalled a scene in the old 1968 classic, “Planet of the Apes”, where the symbol of civilization and its fate for the returned astronaut (Charlton Heston) is the Statue of Liberty. A more universal and contemporary symbol today would be none other than the Mobile Tower. 

Each one of us quickly put on our mobiles and called home to connect with our loved ones.

We were treated here with French fries and pop corns and puri chole. 

We also got an opportunity for a Zip Line.

Despite being back to civilization I was awfully sad to come back and even now, I could trade anything to go back. 

24th May 2015,

Back to Prini Base Camp

After trekking for almost 3-4 hours we reached our base camp that we left 7 days back. All of us were glad to be back with basic amenities like bathing and electricity. We were greeted with a hi-fi and loud claps for making it back to the base camp safe and sound and for completing the trek. To mark out this accomplishment we had a DJ night organized for us the same night. 

Meanwhile we had enough of time to go to Manali market for some shopping and local visiting. Unfortunately taxi's and autos were on a strike due to which we were dependent on buses for a ride to Manali or on our foot for a 5km walk. I, with few of my fellow trekkers made it to Manali in bus but my return journey was a 5km walk, which against all odds was quite fantastic and remarkable. After a couple of hours of immense shopping me and a friend of mine joined a couple of trekkers at Khybar for a toast to this superb successful trek.

Once back we made our way to the dance floor. All of us danced our hearts out thus marking an end to this unforgettable amazingly brilliant experience that each one of us would cherish life long. Now that I am back to Bangalore, I cannot stop talking about it. 

25th May 2015,

Kullu

River rafting

Since most of us were quite enthusiast to try river rafting, we booked a bus and went for river rafting at Kullu. Being my first river raft experience i enjoyed it apart from screaming and quivering when the ice cold water splashed onto my face and tickled down, leaving all of us chilled. 

The same evening we boarded our Volvos to Delhi. SIGH!

And it was time to go.. The mountains had taught me so much about life. It was a life changing experience. I now look at our surplus societies in a different way now. I decided to take it slow going down so that I could absorb everything in before I leave. The Himalayas has left me wanting more.

“We breasted the slope and halted, silent on the path. No words would express our delight. The Himalayas were arrayed before us in a stupendous arc“.

                                                                                                          Frank Smythe


Pic Courtesy: Bharat, Sandhya, Purnima & Sudhakara